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For the meat sauce, heat EVOO, 2 turns of the pan and melt in butter. Add pancetta, render 2 minutes then add beef and sausage (and liver, if using). Brown 12-15 minutes then add onions, bay, thyme, nutmeg, garlic, salt, pepper and rosemary, and cook 10 minutes more. Add wine and let it absorb; add tomatoes and simmer 30-40 minutes.
Cook pasta 5 minutes in salted boiling water. Reserve 1 cup starchy cooking water then drain and run pasta under cold water to cool.