San Francisco Cioppino

For croutons, heat broiler. 

Cut bread in half horizontally, then cut into 12 to 16 large chunks.

In a small pot, warm EVOO, butter, garlic, lemon and thyme.

Place rack in upper third oven. Char bread at edges under broiler, brush with garlic butter mixture and broil 1 minute more, reserve. 

For cioppino, heat the EVOO, 4 turns of the pan, over medium-high heat in a large, wide, stainless brassier or a wide Dutch oven or a large skillet with a lid. Add fennel, leeks, celery, onions, garlic, bay, salt and pepper, fennel pollen (if using), oregano and red pepper flakes, partially cover and soften 7 to 8 minutes, stirring frequently. Add vermouth and let it absorb, then wine, or add 2 cups wine, reduce 2 minutes, add broth or stock and tomatoes and passata or puree. Remove bay leaves. If you like a smoother sauce, puree with a stick blender. If you like a thicker sauce, leave it be. Add the mussels and shrimp, and cover pan to open mussels. Discard any that remain closed after 3 to 4 minutes. Add crab, add fish seasoned with salt and pepper, nest fish into the tomato broth and cook about 4 minutes more. Add juice of 1 lemon.

Arrange the seafood evenly in 4 to 6 dinner plates and top with ⅔ of the broth, soak bread chunks in remaining broth, then divide among bowls. You can also add some of the bread to the pot and serve from the pot at table. Garnish with chopped parsley.